In the land of the bears and monkeys.

I started the journey of my 4th adventure at 5am on a Wednesday morning, the sun still hiding behind the darkness of the warm night. By the time I had made the journey from Hino to central Tokyo, the sky was waking up, cloudless and blue. With a rucksack on my back and another on my belly I found the bus station, printed my ticket and waited to board my 7am bus bound for Takayama.

Naturally, and predictable knowing my bus sleeping skills, I was deep in my dream world within seconds of the bus turning on its ignition. After an hour we had our first pit stop. I woke up, bleary eyed to look out at this view:

 

Safe to say for the rest of the 4 hour journey I was awake. Driving north west of Tokyo, out of the city, higher into the mountain region, into the wild, the trees were a magnificent. They took my breath away, I have never witnessed such colour created by nature. The drive it self, took my breath away for different reason at some points to! Driving curving roads above cliffs with nothing between my head resting against the cold glass of the window and the rapids of water meters below.

 

I arrived in Takayama around lunch time, and was instantly drawn to this town like city. The first thing that I appreciated was being surrounded by buildings that weren’t climbing high into the sky, there the skyline was mountains and red leaved trees. I dropped my bag off at my hostel, eat a nigiri and bag of edemame sat outside the Seven Eleven, using their wifi before getting my map and going exploring.

I walked around the small centre of Takayama for a good few hours, saw a 1,200 year old tree, visited the folk museum and eat my body weight in ‘tasters’ around the tourist shops in the old town! This place definitely felt   like the main income of the town had become tourism, which is a shame really (and which is why, when I went back there after 2 days in the mountains I took a 30 min bus to Hida-Fukarakwa to see the same kind of town, minus the full on effect of tourism).

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After more nigiri for a cheap dinner I had a early night, tucked into my cozy corner underneath a bunk bed with curtains around my mattress, resting before another early morning.

I woke up at 6.20am, quietly got dressed, packed my bag and left the hostel before anyone else was awake, I walked out onto and empty gray street, and it was noticeably colder than any morning in Tokyo. I had all my walking gear on, ready for the day ahead. At 7am, I got on the bus for Kamichochi, by 8.45am I had arrived, got a map, dropped off my bag at the hotel and was hiking along the path. The sun hadn’t yet arrived to warm the frozen valley, I could see my breath in clouds in front of me, the water of the river, clear and cold. The world: beautiful.

The man at the hotel had told me to head up towards Dakesawa, a hut high up the rocky valley. Great, I was happy with that so off I went. By the sign in forrest that turned left up into the mountain a Canadian wad sitting, and he asked me if I was going up to Dakesawa, ‘Yes’, I said, ‘I’m coming with you then, I was scared of going alone incase of the bears..’, and that was that, I didn’t have much choice in the matter, we walked together the whole day. I wasn’t worried at all about the bears, its the hibernating season since October, so I felt completely at home and at ease hiking up the beautiful valley on a incredibly clear day. We hiked for a good 5 hours, but when we stopped for lunch, a mini rock avalanche happened on the other side of the valley, twice. We decided to head back and part ways at the bottom.

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In the evening, after an INCREDIBLE meal, I relaxed in the public bath, looking out at the mountains at the sun set and the red turned into darkness.

I was sat in the same spot, hours later, at 6am, watching the sun rise on another day in Japan. I had woken up early, for another day of hiking, wanting to go further and higher. I had planned my route and had booked my breakfast for 7am, so I could leave straight away and make the most of the day light. I woke up to 3 emails from my mother. ‘Mari, we are worried about you… be careful of the bears… if you come across one you won’t stand a chance…’ and a link to a bear attack that had left a 74 year old man mauled to death in Takayama this time last year, stating that the sightings of bears in November have been rising in the last couple of years due to climate change…great, fantastic, just what I needed. I frantically googled ‘black bears’ and ‘what to do if I see a bear’, after a few minutes of reading the self assured, adventurous, fearless girl who had hiked freely yesterday became a worried, suspicious, scared hiker! ‘If you see a black bear, do not look in their eyes, just back away slowly, but not too slowly.’…WHAT?!! I went down for breakfast in my gown, and thought, ok, lets think about it rationally and ask a few locals what they think. After another DELICIOUS breakfast, and three people telling me that I would be fine, (that I ‘probably’ walnut see a bear..!!) I set off with my newly bought bear bell!

The mind is a powerful thing, it was 7.40am, and with cobwebs catching in my clothes as I walked along the quiet path with the river, I was very aware that I was the first one to walk that path that morning. I was on ‘high alert’, turning quickly at any noise. Feeling like the singing of the bell wasn’t really going to be my knight in saving armour. Turning in from the path, onto another path up through the forest, I froze. Ahead of me was a claw like bear print, in the mud. FORGET IT. I enjoy my life and like my face just how it is thank you very much! I turned back, and spent the rest of the morning walking with a woman who I had talked to during breakfast.

Sometimes, you have to not do the things you want to do, because I probably wouldn’t of seen a bear that day, but If I had, I could not be writing this now.

I had a great trip, seeing wild monkeys, feasting on amazing Japanese food, relaxing in the baths, fresh air, eating apples for breakfast early morning the Takayama market, devouring a bowl of Hida-Beef famous Ramen (no regrets) and making friends at the places I stayed. Thank you again Japan, an island full of wonders.

 

 

 

A quick catchup.

Since I last wrote, a month has flown past. A month of working, exploring, hiking and discovery. Soon after my visit the Fish Market it was Halloween and I got lost in the crowds of Shibya. I have never seen so many people crossing a road at the same time in my life.  It was very tempting to delve into the madness and go party with all the party goers until the sun rose on the next day, but I decided to go home because we had a very memorable Sunday lined up for us at the Juku.

 

Everyone met in the main hall at 9…by 12.30 everyone was dressed, had our hair &make up done and wearing our (ridiculously small) flip-flops …. that Sunday, I got to dress in the traditional Japanese costume: The Kimono. All my miss conceptions about the Kimono we’re quickly re assessed in my head. I had always had the feeling that the kimono was a comfy ‘lounge wear’ that the rich in Japan have been wearing in Japan since the Edo period to show their class and wealth. Firstly the Kimono is not the most relaxing robe I’ve ever wore! It took over 25mins to wear all the layers, to be hoisted in at the right places, and for all the knots to be tight enough, It is very tight around the stomach. We had a nice day, too many photographs, lots of laughter and very very good food!

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A week exactly after that Sunday (with a blissful few days up in the Mitake mountains in-between) …

we had the P-Walk , a 10km charity walk around a district of Tokyo to raise awareness about the Ashinaga 100 Year Vision for Africa. It was the first rainy day I’ve had here, we were soaked though to our bones, but it made it all the more fun and feel all the more like a team effort. Were in this together, and were walking in the name of education, and change, and opportunity. It was a very happy day, wet, but happy. The walk was followed by a blissful bowl of warm Ramen!

Watching the night weave into day: Tsukiji Fish Market.

Seeing the Tuna auction at the Tsujiki Fish Market near Tokyo Bay is not for the impatient or the squeamish: but It’s an night that I will remember fondly from my 78 sleeps here in Japan. The market is moving next year from this historic location to another place, so before the winter set it claws around the city I wanted to go and experience it’s smells, life and excitement before the end of October. That is why, last night I was awake, sitting on the curb outside an office at the entrance of the bustling market at 1am, witnessing the night weave into morning, into day for 3 and a half hours!

Annika came with me so we left for the city centre from our accommodation at the latest possible train so we could catch the last train from Shinjuku to the station near the market. That left at 00.20. With my hat and scarf and a rucksack full of extra layers and tea I felt asif we were wondering into the night on an adventure. The city was very much awake, and around the market a deathtrap of whizzing little vans and mobiles carrying tens of white polyester boxes. After finding the office where you have to wait by to reserve your place at the auction (there is only space for 120) , I was already on my second coffee from two different vending machine and I was very awake. The full moon above and the reflection on the river from the Tokyo Skyline mesmerising. At 1.30am there was 6 of us waiting, by 2.30am there was 20, and by 3am over 90. After 3 we were given yellow vests and moved to a warm waiting room to pass the two hours remaining until the auction. We passed it chatting and reading. The night disappearing away on the clock as it marched onwards, as always.

5.25am, and off we went. Lead by a police officer in a long line of twos as if we were primary school children, weaving our way past rushing trucks and reversing lorries and into the cold, strange room of the auction. The tuna was rock solid frozen, and the men prodding and hammering where their tails had been cut off, testing the meat before bidding their moneys worth. They looked like weapons of war. Some as big as sharks.

We were allowed to watch the auction for what felt like 5 minutes, but was actually 20. The sun had risen by the time we came out and it felt like time for breakfast, even though it wasn’t even 6 yet! We found a little sushi place and sat down to enjoy the delights of Japan accompanied with the best green tea I’ve had since being here.

        

Annika left soon after breakfast and I spent the next few hours exploring (and getting lost) in the bustling outer market that trades everything from fish to fruits to omelettes and teas and taking a stroll along the near by river before the Inner Fish market opened to the public at 9. One of the largest fish markets in the world, It was fascinating and also inevitably sad and worrying. So many fish. Surrounded by death, some still struggling to gulp their last few pockets of air, twitching. How is this sustainable, I haven’t a clue. (Well, it isn’t is it) But it’s how these people make their living, and It must get sold or they would (hopefully) not land it! By the time I found my way out of the inner market the sun was shinning hot, stripping to my vest and ridding my self of my scarf and coats I headed back for the train. It was 11.30am by the time I got into my bed. Enough fish for one day, fascinating. I will sleep well tonight.

From the waves of the Ocean to the tide of Tokyo.

On the second morning of my trip to Ito I got up early for an Onsen and after an interesting breakfast of dried squid from the near convenient store I caught the bus to the Jogasaki Coast. The sun was shinning again, a fine Autumn day and I spent the morning hiking along the coast line for over 10km taking in the  spectacular views, volcanic scenery and crashing waves. Eating my lunch, sitting on a suspension bridge I looked out at the waves, the ocean fast and blue, the shore line 30 meters below where I sat, throwing the shells of my edamame to the sea below, watching them dance their way out of view: all of my senses alive.

The city dims my senses. There is constant noise, so I try to stop hearing. Constant colour, and electric lights and things happening, so I try to see less. A constant rush of people whom you shouldn’t do eye contact with, so I look at my feet. But outside, my whole body is awake. Taking everything in, taking everything in so when I’m stood on a packed train in Tokyo, I can Imagine that I’m there.

In the afternoon, I took the bus from the station on the other end of the path and jumped off at Mt Omuro. An upside down rice ball of an old volcano with a cable bar to the top. The views were wonderful and the 1km trail around the crater on the top worth doing. I finished the afternoon with a Green Tea Ice-cream before heading back to the Inn for an Onsen and a chill.

                  

That evening, I was starving by dinner time, and hungrily stumbled upon a small jewel. Walking in to the small bar like restaurant classical music filled my ears and I was welcomed by the old woman to sit down with only another old man reading the paper over a cup of coffee there.  I choose the table opposite a sculpture. The place was full of art, the walls covered with paintings. I pointed at what looked like an omelette and drank my water. Hunger is the best ingredient because that dinner, was one of the tastiest, balanced , ‘I could eat two more’ dinners I’ve had so far.

The next morning I caught the train to the last stop on the line, Shimoda. I got off the train and walked aimlessly towards where I felt the water would be, 10 streets and a few left and a couple of right turns later I came to the harbour. I like this small town with it’s narrow street and charm immediately. This town had quite an important history regarding a guy called Captain Perry, the first American to set foot here and start to trade with the Japanese people. I didn’t have a plan for the day, only to have a feel for the place in the 5 hours that I had before returning to the big city. The view from the port itself was quite spectacular.

But I felt asif there was more to see, and decided to walk with the curve of the hill even though there was no path. Curving the road, the coast opened up infant of me. It was warm but windy so the sea was choppy, breaking against the shore of the small islands that were scattered in the water. I continued walking before I found a good place to sit in the sun, by the ocean away from all traffic and people. Bliss.

After a good hour of writing my diary my stomach decided it was time for lunch, so I headed back, visiting the Park on the way and down the about ‘Perry Road’, a narrow street with a stream running down the middle and trees. I found a small cafe and had a local fish curry: which was delicious! Before heading back for the train I had time to visit a museum about the hosiery of the place, which had to my surprise and impressive English guide too. I left Shimoda wanting to stay another night, but Tokyo and work was calling.

Take me to Itō.

After my first experience of a real night out in Tokyo, I had been left a little broken. I have never lived in a city as big, as noisy, as hectic. Four nights ago, we had ended up on a night out, and when I say ‘night’ out, I literally mean, the whole night. Trains stop running at 12.30am, and don’t start back until around 6, so as the beers flew down the idea of staying up all night had seemed totally fine, fantastic even…. it was 7.30am the next morning at me getting into my bed, and I wasn’t fine at all.

As I said, I’m not from a place like this.  I have never had to walk more than 40 minutes to get to anywhere that I wanted to get to when I lived in Cardiff or Edinburgh… 40 minutes here and I would be nowhere. I needed to escape the city for a few nights, away from the bright lights and hoards of people… So I decided on the Izu Peninsula.

I left Tokyo 8am this morning, three trains later, at 10.45am I stepped off the train at Itō Station, welcomed by the familiar smell of the ocean, the sun shinning, my heart: happy. After a quick look at a map I instantly had my bearings. I choose a colourful, narrow street and started down towards the sea, it was a bizarre moment: there, a lone walker as classical music sang out of the speakers around the town. For the first time in weeks I had a moment alone.

I found the beach, shoes off, sand warm underneath my feet. After finding a good spot to sit in thats where I spent the next good hour, translating a script, in my ideal office before succumbing to my novel.

The sun was hot, and the water inviting. I had to take a dip in the Japanese sea, the tide was heading out so I swam in the shallow waters, but the feeling of the cold sea dancing around me is so familiar, and at  moments like that, I always wish there was someone there with me to share them.

In the afternoon, after checking in to my Hotel (a fabulous traditional Onsen Hostel. I have the whole dorm to myself, and a balcony above the river!) I grabbed a quick Nigiri (I have never eat this much rice in my entire life!) and caught a local bus to a near by lake. Lake Ippekiko. What beauty. I finally felt as if I was beginning to see the wilderness of Japan, I walked the 4km round the first lake, dazzling under the sun, the green of the trees bright and vibrant and had time to walk around another one near by too. I saw huge koi fish,  orange, white and a dark blue, I also saw a few tortoises. This feels closer to home than Tokyo! After watching the sun set, I headed on the bus back.
Back in the hotel, I went to the Onsen before heading out for some delicious Salmon and Scallop. No camera or writing can do justice to this place. I am going to bed happy, and tomorrow, some costal walking!

Two dead.

Wednesday 14th of October, two people died in Tokyo. Ok, statistically I’m sure that a lot more than two people died in Tokyo on that day, but those two deaths happened on the line that I was travelling on, twice. Two people, on separate times of the day ended their lives on the Keio Line, and as I was stood there on the platform, swallowed by the masses of suited men and tired looking women, It made me question a lot about this Japanese society. Everyone rushing form one place to the next, sleeping on trains, pushing their bodies and minds to the limits, all in the name of keeping up a certain image, of retaining respect. I realise how lucky I am, to be floating through life with only my own goals and aspirations to live up to. To be able to not give the slightest care in the world about what other people think of me, treat others as I would like to be treated and do the best that I can, other than that I’m free. And free is what I was that morning, travelling on the disrupted train that was running hours late because some poor soul had cracked under the pressure.

Me and Kristina had planned to explore the Asakusa area of Tokyo, but the disruption meant that only the ‘local’ train was running, so instead of walking around the old area that is Asakusa our day evolved, unplanned or scheduled to be a rather wonderful one. We walked through random neighbourhoods, narrow streets streching for kilometres, the sun shinning, we arrived at crazy Shinjuku and eat some nigiri rice out side a convenient store while deciding which direction to explore.

By 2pm we were in the middle of this wild park, just 20 minutes walk from the busiest station in the world, we were wondering through a forrest, birds singing and spiders webs catching the sinking sun. After discovering the shrine in the centre we made our way back, and up the Government building. Breathtaking. 42 floors up you can see a panoramic view of the city, that sprawls out for miles. From here we saw the sun set on that day, the day that I will remember as the day that two people decided to end their lives on the Keio Line.

The evening just started, as the best evenings do, with a beer and a seweed soup. We had starved our selves from all the walking and decided to explore the famous Red Light District , Kabukichō. For the first time since setting foot on this island, I was glad that I couldn’t read Japanese. After pacing a few streets, we saw this tiny bar full of people standing and nibbling on delicious freshly cooked food, and thats where we spent the next hour, eating, drinking (this very green , alcoholic green tea that tasted like water….) and trying to communicate with the locals. The evening continued, and after meeting up with a few friends we made sure that we were on the way back by 11 to make it back before our curfew. Shinjuku: Tick.

F U J I .

5am this Friday, as my alarm sang it’s usual song, I lied there in bed for a few seconds confused why I was waking myself up so early. And then I remembered, FUJI!  It’s so much easier to get your self out of bed when the adrenaline is already flowing through your blood at the thought of the day!! Me and Annika left for Kawaguchico, the town under Mt Fuji on the 6.20am train, by 9.15am we were on the bus up to the 5th station and by 10am, both our feet were on the Yoshida trail up Mount Fuji.

The mountain has been ‘closed’ to the public since September the 15th, now, well into October, just to stand on the trail on a beautifully clear, sunny day with a heavenly autumn breeze filled me with joy. Aware of the lack of day light hours and that the last bus left at ten to four, I set the pace, and started up. After about 10 minutes of walking, poor Annika was struggling. When I tell people that I hike, I don’t think they quite understand how used I am to walking, neither do people quite understand that If I say that I want to do something: I normally do it…. But it came apparent quite soon that we were not going to make it to the top together, and I’m not a person to leave anyone behind. So quickly, I made peace with the fact that I wasn’t going to make it to the peak, and enjoyed every second of hiking the snake like rocky path up through all the stations, pass all the locked cabins and cafes, seeing for miles, until it was time to turn back.

The mountain is moon like, volcanic sand covering most of it. Rocky, and big. We hiked for a total of 6 hours, spending the last 2 in the company of two German guys who had been on the bus up with us, sharing the incredible day together on the mountain.

That evening, after a full day out in the sun and fresh, oxygen deficient air, we arrived with smiles and sore thighs in the hotel. From our room, we had a stunning view, and after the sun set, we relaxed in the best way possible: ONSEN followed by a huge bowl of tasty Ramen. Thank you Fujisan, Japan and Kawaguchico.

 

Jet Lag: First working week in Tokyo.

“I’ve been absolutely terrified every moment of my life – and I’ve never let it keep me from doing a single thing I wanted to do.” – Georgia O’Keeffe

It took a few days to settle in to the new pattern of life. The fact that I felt like I was constantly living in the future took over 5 days to get used to, eating my dinner when everyone at home are battling with their alarm clocks or getting ready for work. Chopsticks instead of a knife and fork, a tiny cup instead of my huge mug. Green tea. Rice. A lot of rice. And as for the language, wow. I have always known that my brain is not a sponge that can just soak up information, but I realised since arriving here that It’s actually more of a rock, wearing a highly water proof jacket, and if I want to remember anything, I have to engrave it into my mind. I only started to be able to recall my room mates name today, after seeing her everyday for a week… and thats only because her name  resembles a Japanese place I used to go to eat in in Edinburgh. Awful, I know. But I am trying, dyfal donc a dur y garreg. 

Once I had caught up on lost sleep and met the lovely people that I’m interning with here, the first week flew past. Hours spent working on the balcony in the sun, lunching every day at the 100yen Sushi Bar at the bottom of the hill, meetings, exploring…and a drink or two in-between. We bizarrely had the honour of spending the Wednesday afternoon in the company of the first Lady of Japan, before going out to explore the real city life of central Tokyo. I have found my self here in another place where I believe will be a place thats close to my heart for years to come, making friends that I feel that I already knew before saying hello. Here are some captured moments of my first working week in Tokyo!!!!

In Transit.

October 1st, 2015 : 22.30pm

Leaving home for Japan: On the plane between Manchester and Doha:

I am between today and tomorrow, where lines are blurred, where borders do not exist and time zones made a mock of. I am between the end of one chapter and the beginning of another. In a timeless zone, yet it’s all so time consuming. The world is beneath my feet, cities captivating spiders web of lights, appearing, occasionally through the clouds. I am nowhere, going somewhere new. 5000 miles from home, the furthest I’ve ever been.

October 2nd: Doha.
I arrived in Doha. 5 hours late. Gliding down to the airport the deserted land filled me with a sense of panic. Vast, dry, dry sanded lands. For miles, no rivers , no lake, no trees or fields. Only dessert and random small villages, surrounding the metallic modern city of Doha. This is a world away from home. I missed my connection flight but after about 3 long queues and two hours of waiting I was given food allowance and a hotel name that I could check in to. I checked my phone at it was a 9 minute drive away. In the air-conditioned airport and after sitting down for what seemed like days I threw my back pack on my back and made my way to the exit, ready to walk there. I was quickly stopped and hushed to a bus. Thank god: this IS a different world. The air was hot and heavy, and the roads, filled with speedy white expensive cars. No walk ways or pavements.

I was taken on what felt like a 20 minute drive, on a motorway in the middle of nowhere, the land flat: (where are the mountains?) to a 5* hotel. It was luxury. I was given my own room, en suite. I got to go swimming, to the spa, I had £45 to spend on food…and I had a 10 hour sleep before my early start in the morning. I can not help but feel little ashamed, when you compare this treatment to those of all the Syrian refugees. Am I not migrating too? Anyway, that is a different conversation.

4am came and life sped forward.

October 3rd, 23.40pm: HANEDA, Tokyo.

I have finally arrived at the airport, after over 30 hours of travelling. Unfortunately, I have to stay at the airport till my bus at 7am , I arrived at 23:00 but hey! Here I am, and I’m here to stay! I can predict already that the next 10 weeks are going to go pretty fast, were already in the 4th day of October before I have even began! Tempted to pay a thousand yen for a shower in the airport….I am here and alive. Happy days.

From Sardinia with Love.

Looking at this photo now, I am sat in a one of Tokyo’s main Airports with 7 hours to wait for the next bus after a 35 hour journey, and an over night stay in the bizarre hot world of Qatar: all I can feel is bliss and all I can hear is the sound of water and small bubbles dancing through my hair. This was taken about 5 days ago. It’s strange how some 5 days in your life merge into one fuzzy week, and other 5 days can be defining moments of your life.

I’m not saying that sitting on two airplanes, watching badly made films and eating weird combinations of food is life defining. But flying 5000 miles from home, after just leaving Scotland to be home for a month where a week of that had been spent in Sardinia with one day to clean everything and pack before heading to Japan to start my first job as a filmmaker *breeeeath* is a little life defining. But I feel calm. Almost as calm as I was in the photo above.

Life is running. Chapters are shorter, richer, fuller, with better characters and unexpected turns. But after a blissful, interesting, happy 8 days in Sardinia with my family, I want to take a moment to write a short piece about the last week, in Sardinia.

After a delayed flight we arrived in the dark. Dad, driving on the wrong (right) side of the road, no lights, half a moon, stars shinning: my heart in my throat. After an hour or so of driving, we finally arrived at Dorgali and with my sisters cat eyes and my mothers directions we found the small winding road up the mountain on the other side of Dorgali and arrived at Santa Elena, our hotel. Finally. After the owners kindly fed us cheese, bread and meat we went to bed, eager for the morning to come.

Over the next 7 days we saw crazy geography, hiking up the rocky slopes of Monte Corassi, and down the slippery, dangerous white snake like Canyon of Goropu, entered the 5 million old cave under the famous cliffs of Sardinia by Algahero, swam from different beaches, the seas crystal clear, refreshingly cool , each different to the next: one was moon like, another like a post card. We also saw a lot of history, old, ancient history. There are ruins here from over 5 thousand years ago, when civilisation as we know it today was merely beginning. Society beginning to form. I saw a skull in a museum : it had been found in a cave. They reckon it was about 2 thousand years old, I looked at it for a while, the curve of his skull and the two gaping holes where it eyes should of been. I wondered what he would think if he could see the world now.

After 5 nights in Dorgali we moved onwards (and eastwards) to the other side of the island! To Bosa. I liked it immediately when we drove over the small bridge, the old town standing colourful and full of pride infront of us. We managed to park the car right in front of a pizza place, we ordered a pizza each (amazing, full of fresh fillings and cheese, folded over and oozing at the sides) for €2.50 and had a cold beer from next door… little did we know that we had just stubbled upon the most popular pizza place in the town! (Come the next evening the que was out the door when we went to pick up a cheap delicious supper!) This place bounces with character, the castle chilling, without ceremony on the top of the hill, from which you can follow the river all the way through the city to the sea. We had a great time in Bosa, celebrating that evening Wales winning England in the group stages of the world cup. Sweet, sweet victory, accompanied with sweet sweet wine.

Cala Luna: a beach we hiked to on the first day and caught the boat back! (only accessible by boat or foot!)

Views from Monte Corassi

Swimming before the storm.

A happy, blissfully, tasty week spent with my family, that feels like another world away now! But from now on, I will be blogging from TOKYO! Let the next chapter begin!